The Serenity of South Goa

We have never been excited by the noisy, crowded parts of North Goa. And when we had to reach Goa around Christmas for work we were afraid all places would be sold out or too loud. A bit of a search around South Goa, an oasis of calm and serenity, and we locked on to a beautiful place called Ordo Sounsar  (meaning Another World, in Goan), on Talpona Beach, run by the charismatic Serafin Fernandes.

The Location:

The location was a bit of a trouble finding at night, which is all the better, since it attracts less crowds. At one point we had to cross a narrow iron bridge over the river Talpona, fearing it could scrape our car from either or both sides.

Bridge on Talpona River
An extremely narrow bridge on the way to Talpona Beach in South Goa.

Once we found the place, we were shown our lovely shack, made of bamboo, raised on stilts. These shacks are temporary and taken down every monsoons. The rooms were cozy and the open top bathroom very cool. Goa during end December becomes very cold at night with temperatures dipping to around 15 degrees, and add a cold sea breeze to that. We were thrilled to have discovered just the tucked away place to spend our Christmas and New Years’.

Mornings here wake up to a clean and serene beach, with only a fellow traveller or two practicing yoga. Our shack was right on the beach so we could hear the sea throughout. If you are the types who likes to connect to a peaceful and very indigenous local culture, South Goa would appeal to you. There isn’t much to do around here, which is very good, because you can truly relax. We discovered another shack next to ours which serves delicious local food, at very reasonable prices, called Deepiksha, and it became our meal destination. A walk down the road either way, and we discovered just a couple of more places, all serving great food, and all very peaceful.

The Talpona river forms a beautiful estuary as it meets the Arabian Sea. It’s home to many species of bird and marine life. A small ‘mangrove safari’ in a local fisherman’s boat is highly recommeded. Do carry your binoculars for spotting the many species of birds found here.  Evenings are spent lazing around, taking walks down the estuary backwaters while listeing to a Lineated Barbet, and stopping by some shack for your tea. It was during this trip that we also visited the nearby Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary.

South Goa is very peaceful and gorgeous, if you want to be away from the crowds. And lets hope and pray it stays that way.

Dinner at beach shack in south Goa.
Dinner at the shack was delicious and cozy, amidst the sea breeze and rustling of casuarina trees.
Bamboo shack.
We woke up to sun leaking through the bamboo walls of the shack.
A soft cotton mosquito net created a dream like ambiance. Perfect way to way up! Plus the sound of the sea outside.
We woke up to a lovely quiet beach.
Our place of stay was clean and serene.
This is where we stayed.
Every now and then, there’s a clean and beautiful path to the beach.
South Goa.
Also, every now and then, there are beautiful local houses and shacks to grab a bite.
Parts of the beach have these beautiful rocks where the constantly churning sea water creates little eco-systems.
We love these kinds of beaches with character.
Talpona River
Evening at the estuary of Talpona River.
Deepiksha Restaurant, with its delicious and fresh food, became our favorite place for meals.
Simple but tasty home made Goan food at Deepshikha Restaurant made us great fans.
Serafin, the owner of Ordo Sounsar, brings fresh catch everyday for the kitchen.
The meals at Ordo Sounsar are delcious and fresh, with fish hand picked by the owner.
Bibinca, Goa.
And what better way to end a Goan meal than with Bibinca?
Our ‘mangrove safari’ in a boat.
A Red Wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus) amidst the mangroves of Talpona Estuary.
little heron
A Little Heron (Butorides striatus).
A Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus) roosts on a Casuarina tree.
Apart from the beaches, the lush paddy fields are a great sight.
pond heron3
An Indian Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii) in the paddy fields of South Goa.
An Asian Openbill (Anastomus oscitans) foraging on the paddy fields of South Goa.
A Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava), again in the paddy fields.
South Goa is where you feel like winding down, reading a book, or taking a stroll by the river. Or lazy days spent in photographing the beautiful environs.
The Talpona River is gentle and beautiful.
The Talpona beach too is un-crowded and hence peaceful.
Local dogs have fun around one of the fishing boats on Talpona Beach.
A quiet morning at the beach.

[box type=”success” width=”100%” ]How To Reach: Goa can be reached easily by flight, train or road. It’s very well connected. Talpona Beach in Goa is ahead of Canacona.

Where to stay: We stayed at Ordo Sounsar and loved it. We recommend the same. Phone : +919822488769

What to do: Relax. Walk down the roads and the river. Yoga on the beach. Eat. Swim. Take walks through paddy fields. And remind the hotel owners that you are here only for the peace. And that they should try to be like North Goa.

What to eat: Local cuisine. Do try the Bibinca, a local dessert made with flour, eggs, coconut milk and ghee.

When to go: Winters is the best time, though we love Goa in the monsoons, and you would too, if you love plenty of heavy rain…


Conservation: The beaches of South Goa are vulnerable habitats of Olive Ridley Turtles and some other species of Sea Turtles. Do respect that, and avoid visiting beaches marked for such. Get more information here. Do make that known to very resort owner here that you care for the turtles.

17 thoughts on “The Serenity of South Goa”

  1. I stayed at the royal hathi mahal which was a walk away from cavellossium beach and it was absolutely divine…you reminded me of that…nice clicks:-)

  2. super pics…I specially liked the picture of paddy field with coconut trees in background! It is these beautiful vistas that I can always go back…again & again…
    Thanks for sharing!

  3. Hi
    We know Sera from years back when he had a place in Palolem. We havent been to his new place and would be interested in some basic info like hut price and season timings as they dont have any info on their facebook page. Thanks


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